David did a great job on this write up detailing how to remove the alternator and crank positioning sensor on a 1996 Tacoma with the 2.7 #RZFE.
Be sure to follow David on Instagram. @boosted2jza80
Hey everyone, I decided to do a write up on removing the alternator and crank positioning sensor on my 96 Tacoma 2.7 3rzfe 4×4.
*Disclaimer* I am not responsible if you blow up your truck or yourself, please have some common sense, use this AS A GUIDE. If you’re stuck ASK FOR HELP!!*
- 10,12,14 mm sockets.
- Various extensions.
- Socket wrench(s).
- T-30 Torq socket.
- 14mm Wrench.
- Flathead screw driver for removal of mounting bracket on old CPS (not pictured).
- *Optional* Magnetic bowl,helps keep bolts and sockets organized and safe.
- Beverage or herb of your choice 😉
Disconnect the negative cable and fender body ground before servicing the vehicle.
Remove fender body ground, yours may look different, but the location is the same.
Remove negative cable and tuck down behind battery so it doesn’t accidentally ark/reconnect.
8mm Socket to remove fender skirt, your bolts make be different, mine are self taping screws, I don’t know if mine are factory or not.
Put a 14mm socket wrench on this side.
Put a14mm wrench on this side.
10mm Socket on this tube.
Again 10mm socket.
Remove power steering idle vacuum hoses for more room to work.
Remove alternator bracket bolt 12mm, loosen 12mm bolt to release tension on the alternator belt. Once disassembled, now is a good time to put some anti-seize on that adjustment screw just to make things slide easier and not seize up! Just don’t get any on that belt!
12mm Bolt removed from alternator bracket.
Remove 10mm alternator cable nut, unplug harness clip (now is a good time to put some dielectric grease inside that connector to keep dirt and water out,also to aid in removal of harness clip).
At this point if you’re only doing the alternator you can stop here and just reinstall going backwards with the steps and pictures. For those of you doing the CPS (crank positioning sensor) Stay tuned! We’re almost done.
Two 14mm bolts (I already removed one) for the alternator mounting bracket, can either go from the top with a short extension or from the side with the longer extensions.
I like to use anti-seize on a lot of these bolts just because this truck has seen mud and the previous owner(s) did zero maintenance… Anti-seize is good preventative maintenance if you play in the water, mud or snow.
Remove 12mm CPS bracket bolt.
Grab your T-30 torq socket and get it ready.
Here’s the CPS, just 2 bolts.
I used these long extensions once I broke the bolts loose to make removal easier. Be careful when breaking them loose that you don’t strip them out, that would be a nightmare. Instead try going from the top of the engine bay and use a short extension.
Replace yours if they look like this (they’re cheap enough), don’t want to take a chance on striping them, they’re getting rusty.
I’m told these small metal fragments are normal?
Always, always, always match up part numbers BEFORE INSTALLING. Some places MAY allow you to return electronic parts, MUST NOT BE INSTALLED!! So check the numbers FIRST so you’re not wasting money!
Remove mounting bracket from old TPS using a flat head screw driver and install on new CPS.
Again for install, follow in reverse order, congrats!